Asia Steps

Phu My Hung Neighborhood

Today we decided to explore another residential neighborhood in the south of the city at District 7 called Phu My Hung. This fairly large, new area features newly built buildings atop stores, cafes and beauty salons. There are wide streets shaded by trees and an 8 lane highway leading to it. It reminded me a lot of “Ramat Aviv”, the affluent north Tel Aviv neighborhood where Tel Aviv University is, only missing a fancy mall (for now). After a fruit shake in one of the nice places at Phu My Hung, we drove back to the city and headed to Ben Thanh market. The large and colorful market has not changed a bit since the last time I was there 6 years ago. There are still lacquer souvenirs on top of clothes on top of shoes right next to food stands. The whole market is very crowded and after an hour of navigating the narrow alleys (and a close encounter with a huge cockroach) we got out to eat lunch elsewhere.

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Hotel Continental in HCMC

Today we woke up especially early to get the most out of our last morning on Phu Quoc Island. After eating breakfast and snapping some photos of the resort we had a last tan and swim on the beach at Mango Bay. The taxi to the airport was a welcome change from the dust of the road by motorbike and we boarded our plane back to HCMC.

We returned to the city very hungry and promptly ate a meal of delicious crab/asparagus (Tamar) and melon/pork (Kevin) soup and other goodies at Vietnam House, a restaurant in the Don Khoi area. In the evening we met up with our friends, Aryeh and Jesse, at Jesse’s house in District 1 where we enjoyed excellent Indian food take-out. It’s great to be back in Ho Chi Minh City!

We were in the mood for some pho in the morning and drove into town searching for a place serving that wonderful morning dish. It seems pho is not as popular here as it is in HCMC and we ended up having baguette with egg. We drove once again to Vietnam Airlines and this time we got lucky-we were able to get tickets for a flight back to HCMC for the following day! Although we could have easily stayed on the island for another 2 weeks, we were relieved that we won’t need to spend a whole day journeying back by boat and bus.

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Today was our first day of pure relaxation on the beach. We woke up to the calm sound of the waves and decided to spend the whole day reading, sleeping, eating and sun bathing. We stayed here at Mango Bay and got off our long chairs just to order food. The island has a magical power that makes you feel totally and utterly relaxed and happy. The speed of talk is slowed down and all thoughts seem to focus on how we could possibly live on an island permanently…

Kevin decided to explore the Phu Quoc “night scene” and go squid fishing in the evening. He drove the motorbike down to the docks alone where he joined up with a boat that was about to leave. He caught one squid the whole night but ate a great squid congee dinner washed down with a Vietnamese “333” Beer. He nearly got lost on the long, dusty, unlit and mostly deserted road late at night (went a couple of kilometers too far) which he said was the spookiest driving experience he’d ever had!

Driving through Fishing Villages

A friend we met in town, Nguyen, recommended driving north to see the beaches and forest on that part of the island. We read that you could drive through the forest with a motorbike and planned to take shelter beneath the shady trees at the hottest time of the day.

After driving for about an hour, we were covered in dust and ready for a break. We stopped at Vungbau Beach to look at the great view and had lunch there. Kevin ordered BBQ squid marinated in salt and chili and a few minutes later he got his own personal grill to cook his lunch on. It was so yummy!

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Riding around Phu Quoc Island

We rented a bike and drove to Duong Dong, the island’s main town. We decided to check with Vietnam Airlines office across from the airport if there were any available seats flying back to Saigon. So far there are none and we may have to stay here forever.

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Paradise

We took a morning flight to Phu Quoc Island and within 50 minutes we were in paradise. Phu Quoc Island is located at the Gulf of Thailand, 15km south of the Cambodian border (it is also claimed by Cambodia under the name Koh Tral). The island is a wonderful combination of beaches, mountains and small villages dotted all around.

Once we got our bag from the one and only luggage conveyor belt at Phu Quoc Airport, we took a taxi to “Mango Bay”, our home for the next six days. The drive was about 30 minutes and we were dropped off near the reception. Everything at Mango Bay is eco-friendly, including the building materials which are organic and recycled. It all creates a very special look. We quickly settled into our bungalow and had a wonderful lunch by the water. We spent the rest of the day relaxing on the beach. In the late afternoon, we watched the sunset on the beach. Phu Quoc is the only place in Vietnam you could do that.

With Tim & Magalie

The Coffee is so good in Saigon; I find it hard to not have at least two a day. Before starting the day’s adventure, Kevin drove us to a cafe he knows by the Notre Dame cathedral, called “Au Parc”. We had great coffee and were quickly on our way to meet friends in District 2. In order to get to District 2, we drove over the Saigon Bridge along with about a thousand other motorbikes. Our friends, Tim and Magalie, have recently moved from France to Vietnam with their two daughters-Niko-Linh and Suzanne. They live in a big house in a beautiful residential neighborhood. Very close to their home, Magalie recently opened a children’s clothing store, named “Little Anh-Em” where she sells unique clothes she designs for kids.

After a visit to a local French school where Niko-Linh dances and we had a great lunch at “Mekong”, we said goodbye and drove back for another meeting at “Highlands Café”. Kevin was starting to feel sick so we headed back to the hotel for some R&R but not before getting the local remedy for every sickness- pho bo (beef noodle soup)!

Today we celebrated our two year wedding anniversary and for the occasion we booked a couple’s package at the fanciest spa in town called “L’apothiquaire”. We were picked up from our hotel in a 60’s looking lavender car and taken to the French villa in district 3 where the spa is located. We spent 4.5 hours in a gorgeous setting getting body and foot massages, facials, mani/pedi and eating a wonderful meal by the pool. It was INCREDIBLE.
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The Night Lights of Saigon

On our first full day in HCMC we woke up not knowing what time it was since the room we were in at the NY Kim Phuong Hotel (complete with photos of New York in each room) had no windows. We skipped the included pho breakfast (hard to believe one can skip a yummy pho breakfast) in favor of the banh cuon at modern looking joint down the block called “Wrap & Roll”.

Vietnam Airlines has an office next door so we went in to book tickets to Phu Quoc Island. We were told that tickets are nearly sold out and we managed to get the only 2 seats available this week and nothing for a return flight. Fortunately, there’s a ferry/bus combo as an alternative should we get “stuck” on the island.

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