V is for Veterans, V is for Vietnam

Posted by Kevin Maes on Nov 11 2008 | History, TV, Movies & Media, Vietnam

When one thinks of V-Day we think of the good old days when the US was the undisputed victor of major wars, fought relatively quickly, and in multiple theaters around the world. For the Americans, The Vietnam War was the exact opposite.

At the same time that Tamar was on a business call with her client in Ho Chi Minh City, I was watching a documentary on National Geographic about the Vietnam Veterans Memorial in Washington DC. The memorial was designed by Maya Lin and I saw another documentary about the preparation and construction of the monument several years ago. This documentary, however, was equally fascinating and in some ways even more touching to watch.

There are 58,260 names listed on the wall of the memorial. The only criteria is that the names be of men or women who were either killed or remained missing in the war.

What I found the most interesting was the in depth discussion of all of the many items left at the wall by visitors to the site. These items include flowers, notes, flags, and photographs and other items that we’ve now come to expect at similar memorial sites. Seeing these immediately reminded me of the items left after the September 11 attacks and even at some sites following terror attacks in Israel. The narrator explained that this tradition has largely been shaped over the years by the practice of thousands of visitors to the Vietnam Veteran’s Memoral, the second most visited site in Washington D.C. after the White House.

However, beyond the usual items, people have left and continue to leave much much more. There were personal items as well as military items, especially medals for service. There were collectible items such as memorabilia, sports items, clothing, etc. I remember seeing a cigarette that was “not wet”, something that meant a whole lot more to a soldier fighting in the tropical forests of Vietnam than it ever would to an average person today. The most popular alcohol left is a bottle of Jack Daniel’s. There was also a bullet that killed a particular soldier. Many of these military items were brought by fellow soldiers and left for the memory of their fallen comrades. In one instance a letter was left by a man who was then a young soldier at the time offering an apology for taking the life of the very soldier the letter was left for. The largest single item left was a custom made motorcycle assembled by veterans of Wisconsin made of donated parts and artistically crafted and painted in memory of missing POWs from that state.

At first these items were simply picked up and discarded but their importance was soon realized. They are now collected and stored safely and they make up a museum collection where they are prominently displayed. These items are like those in a time capsule representing an entire era in American history, a generation of war and those people who have lived on but with wounds unhealed. This museum collection is unlike any other in that it has been collated and offered up by ordinary people and has been given meaning by them because it truly has meaning for them.

Without a doubt it is to the thousands of soldiers whose names are carved into the black granite that the Vietnam Veterans Memorial, also known as The Wall, is dedicated. However, it is the constant stream of visitors who keep alive their memory and the memory of such a sad time in America’s past. On this Veterans Day, as is the case every year, I’m most reminded of the war in which I was born but in which so many others lost their lives. Whether through visits to the Wall, items left behind for loved ones, or trips to Asia for business or pleasure, Americans will surely continue to visit Vietnam over and over again for many years to come.

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Hairy-nosed Otters

Posted by Kevin Maes on Oct 05 2008 | Animals, News, Vietnam

As you’ve probably noticed, there hasn’t been a lot of writing going on here at AsiaSteps over the past several months. That’s not to say that nothing has been going on in our exploration of Asia or Asian culture. On the contrary, Tamar and I have experienced many blog-worthy events, tastings, art and the like but we’ve just been so busy with other things that it’s been hard to jump back into the blogging. It’s tough to find the perfect subject to write about when you’ve been away from the blog for so long.

I’ve come to the conclusion that the perfect subject to blog about will never be found so here is something that at least caught my attention and something that appealed to my love for animals…the hairy-nosed otter! A couple of these folks were just sighted in Vietnam after many years. Here’s a link with another hairy-nosed otter photo from the Phnom Tamau Wildlife Sanctuary where we visited last January

I’ve never written about otters before so it’s not a subject I’m prepared to expand on here. But the fact that these guys have particularly hairy noses definitely makes me question my previous views regarding the amount of hair normal otters have on their noses.

Tamar and I also like hearing about nature sanctuaries like U Minh Ha National Park and we’re curious about these places. Perhaps we’ll swing by on our next trip.

So, when is our next trip and where will we go? We’re working on that right now!

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New Video: Kids at Long Beach on Phu Quoc Island

Posted by Kevin Maes on Jan 21 2008 | Vietnam


While driving along Long Beach on the west coast of Phu Quoc Island we encountered some very charming kids. Here’s a video clip from our motorbike trip that day.

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Goodbye Ho Chi Minh City

Posted by Tamar Hadar on Jan 19 2008 | Vietnam

Festive Ho Chi Minh City

Festive Ho Chi Minh City

Last night, while dancing at a stylish club to celebrate our last evening in HCMC, I heard from Philip why he loves this city so much, “Saigon just has magic, it draws you to it and you just can’t leave.” Like many other expats living here, Philip is enjoying the rapid changes and overwhelming modernism that has swept this city. Visiting here again after 6 years, I find that there are hardly any cyclos but double the amount of motorbikes and a lot of cars everywhere. Tall buildings are being erected in city center, featuring a gym, spa and other luxury amenities to a nouveau riche population. Fancy new malls have sprung up in addition to upscale stores scattered all around selling gourmet chocolate, haute couture and expensive jewelry. Countless new cafes and outdoor restaurants offer excellent meals, some of the best I have had in a while in a charming and laid back atmosphere.

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Journal: Wednesday, Jan 16, 2008

Posted by Tamar Hadar on Jan 16 2008 | Journal, Vietnam

Phu My Hung Neighborhood

Phu My Hung Neighborhood

Today we decided to explore another residential neighborhood in the south of the city at District 7 called Phu My Hung. This fairly large, new area features newly built buildings atop stores, cafes and beauty salons. There are wide streets shaded by trees and an 8 lane highway leading to it. It reminded me a lot of “Ramat Aviv”, the affluent north Tel Aviv neighborhood where Tel Aviv University is, only missing a fancy mall (for now). After a fruit shake in one of the nice places at Phu My Hung, we drove back to the city and headed to Ben Thanh market. The large and colorful market has not changed a bit since the last time I was there 6 years ago. There are still lacquer souvenirs on top of clothes on top of shoes right next to food stands. The whole market is very crowded and after an hour of navigating the narrow alleys (and a close encounter with a huge cockroach) we got out to eat lunch elsewhere.

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Journal: Tuesday, Jan 15 2008

Posted by Kevin Maes on Jan 15 2008 | Journal, Vietnam

Hotel Continental in HCMC

Hotel Continental in HCMC

Today we woke up especially early to get the most out of our last morning on Phu Quoc Island. After eating breakfast and snapping some photos of the resort we had a last tan and swim on the beach at Mango Bay. The taxi to the airport was a welcome change from the dust of the road by motorbike and we boarded our plane back to HCMC.

We returned to the city very hungry and promptly ate a meal of delicious crab/asparagus (Tamar) and melon/pork (Kevin) soup and other goodies at Vietnam House, a restaurant in the Don Khoi area. In the evening we met up with our friends, Aryeh and Jesse, at Jesse’s house in District 1 where we enjoyed excellent Indian food take-out. It’s great to be back in Ho Chi Minh City!

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New Photos: Phu Quoc Island & Mango Bay Resort

Posted by Tamar Hadar on Jan 15 2008 | Blogging, Vietnam

We just posted photos of the magnificent island of Phu Quoc and Mango Bay Resort where we stayed. Check it out!

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Journal: Monday, Jan 14, 2008

Posted by Tamar Hadar on Jan 14 2008 | Food, Journal, Vietnam

We were in the mood for some pho in the morning and drove into town searching for a place serving that wonderful morning dish. It seems pho is not as popular here as it is in HCMC and we ended up having baguette with egg. We drove once again to Vietnam Airlines and this time we got lucky-we were able to get tickets for a flight back to HCMC for the following day! Although we could have easily stayed on the island for another 2 weeks, we were relieved that we won’t need to spend a whole day journeying back by boat and bus.

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Journal: Sunday, Jan 13 2008

Posted by Tamar Hadar on Jan 13 2008 | Journal, Vietnam

Today was our first day of pure relaxation on the beach. We woke up to the calm sound of the waves and decided to spend the whole day reading, sleeping, eating and sun bathing. We stayed here at Mango Bay and got off our long chairs just to order food. The island has a magical power that makes you feel totally and utterly relaxed and happy. The speed of talk is slowed down and all thoughts seem to focus on how we could possibly live on an island permanently…

Kevin decided to explore the Phu Quoc “night scene” and go squid fishing in the evening. He drove the motorbike down to the docks alone where he joined up with a boat that was about to leave. He caught one squid the whole night but ate a great squid congee dinner washed down with a Vietnamese “333” Beer. He nearly got lost on the long, dusty, unlit and mostly deserted road late at night (went a couple of kilometers too far) which he said was the spookiest driving experience he’d ever had!

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Journal: Saturday, Jan 12 2008

Posted by Tamar Hadar on Jan 12 2008 | Journal, Vietnam

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Driving through Fishing Villages

A friend we met in town, Nguyen, recommended driving north to see the beaches and forest on that part of the island. We read that you could drive through the forest with a motorbike and planned to take shelter beneath the shady trees at the hottest time of the day.

After driving for about an hour, we were covered in dust and ready for a break. We stopped at Vungbau Beach to look at the great view and had lunch there. Kevin ordered BBQ squid marinated in salt and chili and a few minutes later he got his own personal grill to cook his lunch on. It was so yummy!

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