Tamar & Kevin in Chiang Mai

It’s time to say goodbye to Asia again. I cannot believe 8 weeks have gone by already. I’ve had an incredible time living, working and traveling in South East Asia. It has been a very special experience and I hope its positive effects will stay with me for a while. I’ll admit it though, I miss home.

This morning Kevin and I said goodbye at Chiang Mai airport. We almost missed our flights due to a flower festival in town and had to walk with our bags to the highway where we eventually found a taxi. Luckily we made it in time! I boarded a plane to Bangkok and then switched to another plane heading to HCMC, Vietnam. Tomorrow night I leave for New York (via Tokyo). Kevin boarded a plane to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, which marks the first stop on his three week adventure around Malaysia, Singapore and Vietnam. Be sure to check out the blog for stories, photos and videos of his journey!

I spent the evening in HCMC stuffing myself with Vietnamese food (I missed it terribly) and enjoying drinks outdoors with good friends. The city looks as beautiful as ever and I hope to see it again real soon!

A view of the Pai River from the nearby mountain

We’ve just uploaded photos from our last two days in Pai. Instead of joining an organized trekking tour, we decided to ride around by ourselves and explore different villages, waterfalls, wats and farmland. It was fabulous.

Check out the photos from day 3 and day 4.

We are now back in Chiang Mai packing our bags and getting ready to say goodbye to each other and to Thailand. Tomorrow morning we both fly out of Chiang Mai – I am flying back to HCMC for 1 night before flying back home (via Tokyo) and Kevin is flying to Malaysia to start his adventure!

Tin Tin Up Close

Going to the north of Thailand without riding an elephant is a little like going to Vegas without gambling. Yesterday, on our first full day in Pai, we decided to go elephant riding in the afternoon. For our journey, we got “Tin Tin”, a huge female elephant who doesn’t look a day older than 412. Tin Tin, as we learned moments later, is a moody girl with a serious gas problem (the two are related, I suspect).

We rode on Tin Tin’s back, along with our guide, Chai, and were focusing very hard to not fall off. It is very tricky to hold on to the ropes and balance on top of a huge elephant. In addition to being challenging, it is also PAINFUL. Tin Tin had rough skin and very sharp prickly hair that rubbed against our legs as we were holding on tightly. Our guide was yelling orders at her the whole journey to the river but she was disobeying every single one, my kind of girl!

After what seemed like an hour (but really covered only a few hundred meters), we finally reached the river. This was where the real fun began. The water transformed Tin Tin from a grumpy old lady into a playful little girl. She had a great time splashing water on us, dropping us into the river and turning from side to side dipping one of us at a time in the brown waters. We got a real taste of the rodeo and were both super sore. We could barely walk away when the ride was over and we swore to wait another decade (at least) before the next ride.

Bamboo Rafting down the River

Next followed a special treat – we were met by another guy who took us down the river on a bamboo raft. As this is the dry season, the river was very calm and the ride peaceful. We got to see all kinds of animals on the way and wave to people going about their business by the river. The trip ended with the sunset behind the Pai mountains. It was gorgeous.

One of the many dirt roads around Koh Mak

We decided to end our week long stay on the islands by spending two nights in Koh Mak – a smaller island off of Koh Chang. We took a slow boat from Koh Chang’s fisherman’s village and an hour later we were on a gorgeous new island. Even before getting off the boat, I could already see that the water was crystal clean turquoise and the scenery resembled one of those posters you see in a tour agency. Koh Mak is definitely less touristy than Koh Chang with far less resorts, restaurants and activities. There are stretches of land where you see nothing but trees (and dogs). It is very quiet and somewhat secluded, a perfect romantic getaway.

We stayed at “Monkey Island” in a simple bungalow with a bed, mosquito net and an outdoor shower attached to the room (there is no ceiling, showering is done under the stars). In the evening, we listened to a live acoustic Thai music performance at the resort sitting a few steps from the beach. Can’t say I liked the music but I definitely enjoyed the atmosphere. In the middle of our first night we woke up to the sound of a major downpour. We were surprised by how dry everything stayed inside of the cabin but we both got soaked going out to the bathroom.

Learning to ride the bike on Koh Mak

The best way to explore the island is by riding a motorbike. We wanted to be sure to try every single beach and sample every dish around (not very hard to do as I counted 3 restaurants in total, not including resorts). Last year, while on Phu Quoc island in Vietnam, Kevin started teaching me how to ride the motorcycle. I am guessing there are still a few locals in Phu Quoc laughing their heart out at that unforgettable driving lesson. While in Koh Mak, we decided to try again, we were on a deserted island after all. This time, we rented an automatic bike and it made a huge difference! After a 10min lesson in the resort’s parking lot, I drove out to the main street and started riding around. We rode around on dirt paths exploring hidden paths and pristine beaches. It was super fun! Here are some photos from Koh Mak.

On Thursday morning, we left the island and embarked on a full day’s journey to Chiang Mai, all the way in the north of Thailand. A speedboat, minivan, bus, plane and taxi later, we were settling into our charming room at the guesthouse.

Pancake & Dewey

A few days ago, while riding around Koh Chang, Kevin and I stopped to ask for directions and discovered a charming little cafe called “Lanna’s Cafe”. It is located at the southern tip of Kai Be beach, right before the road becomes steep and winding leading to Lonely Beach. The place is run by a Thai-Japanese couple who offer organic Arabic coffee grown in the North of Thailand. All the coffees and teas served can be bought in beautifully designed packages. Due to some inexplicable health streak we’re on, we opted for organic tea instead of coffee and it was excellent!

The cafe is a very cute spot for chillin’ in the afternoon. We stayed for drinks and a chat with Uta (one of the owners) about life in Koh Chang. Uta and her husband also have a cute kitty named Pancake (I suspect he got that nickname since his daily regiment consists of 22hrs laying flat on his belly, 2 hrs for eating). Pancake happens to look a lot like Dewey, the hero of a book I got as a gift from a friend for this trip. I just had to take a picture of the two of them!

Hiking up the Mountain in Koh Chang

The only part of my body that doesn’t actually ache at the moment is my fingers which is why I am able to type this post. This morning Kevin and I got picked up at our resort and drove to the northern tip of the island for a full day of trekking in the jungle. We sat in a back of a pickup truck while the driver took us through steep mountain roads. As we were driving north, we had a chance to meet the other members of our small group (a French couple and a Scottish couple) and I noticed that all but me were wearing professional trekking shoes. Hmm. I definitely have a pair somewhere at home in New York where I will never ever need to use them.

Twenty minutes later, we were in the jungle, ready and excited to start the day. Our guide, Mr. Tan (who came highly recommended by my friend Keren), gave us each a walking stick, two bottles of water and a lunch box to take with us. At first, we walked through an orchid where Tan showed us different fruits (Banana, Rambutan, Eggplant, Durian, Lime) and spices (Chili, Basil, Lemongrass) grown locally while explaining how they are used in Thai cuisine.

That concluded the easy portion of the day and we quickly started climbing up the mountain.

Tan walked the six of us through thick vegetation, narrow trails and sometimes scary pathways. It definitely reminded me of my favorite show “Lost”, I was just hoping “The Others” were on a different island this week. We stopped every once in a while to see interesting trees and animals and admire the view from up high. It was gorgeous!

A 500m climb is definitely not part of my daily routine in New York, it was rough! We were both covered in sweat (and mosquitos) for most of the day. After four hours of hiking up the mountain, we reached the summit and stopped for a much needed break at a waterfall. Jumping into the cool water was exactly what we needed after exerting ourselves. We all had lunch by the waterfall and relaxed for a while.

The worst part about climbing up is definitely climbing down. This proved to be more challenging than I had expected since the strap on my new shoes broke within the first 30 seconds of our climb. I guess that’s what you get for 200 Baht. With torn sandals and achy legs, I started descending. After about an hour (kinda felt like 3), we were back in civilization and ready for a cold beer.

We figured we got a really good workout and can treat ourselves to a “naughty rotee” which is what we have nicknamed the super fattening banana rotee (banana crepe with condensed milk). It was a really fun day and I’m glad we got to see some of the beautiful mountainous terrain of Ko Chang.

Coral Resort, Koh Chang

Koh Chang has everything an island needs to have in order to qualify for paradise status: great beaches, beautiful scenery, excellent food and plenty of cats around. On our first day here, we took a little survey of the beach and pool situation, I am happy to report the water is warm and clear. Perfect. Tomorrow we hope to explore the waterfalls and do some hiking.

The Reunion

Kevin and I are in Bangkok, catching up on the last five weeks in each other’s life. We met up at Bangkok airport last night and headed straight to our wonderful hostel – Suk 11. Today we walked around and saw the famous sights of the city including the National Palace and Wat Pho.

Tomorrow morning we’re leaving for the island of Ko Chang which, according to rumors, is the closest thing to paradise in Thailand.

Cute Kids in the Neighborhood

This is my last morning in Ton That Tuyet, I fly out to Bangkok in a few hours. I took a walk around the neighborhood to say goodbye. Check out the photos!

A Beautiful Friday Night in Saigon

Today was my last day at MSS, it was sad to say goodbye to people I have been working/hanging out/partying with for the past five weeks. I will certainly miss the energy and smiles all around me. Working in Vietnam has been an incredible experience, one that I will always remember.

The folks at the office wanted to make sure I don’t leave Vietnam before I try every single dish available. The going away celebrations started earlier this week and ended tonight with a feast at 3T (Vietnamese BBQ). I can definitely say I’ve had incredible food in Vietnam with wonderful people and am already lamenting having to say goodbye.

Vietnam keeps changing, every visit here is like a first in a way. There is so much going on at all times, new businesses opening up, new buildings erected, new cuisines offered and new (better) regulations introduced to control the chaos. I wonder what HCMC will be like next time I visit.

I celebrated the end of five weeks of work tonight on a rooftop of a Spanish bar in Dist 1. Sipping Sangria outdoors in perfect weather never felt so good.

I miss Vietnam already!