The full moon over the Batu Caves on Thaipusam

In my three weeks of travel now that Tamar has returned to the US I planned to visit Malaysia, Singapore and Ho Chi Minh City. When I told my Malaysian friend, Vannitha, that I was in the process of making plans she told me about the Hindu Thaipusam Festival that was to happen in and around Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia’s capital, the weekend of February 8th this year. She described it as an “unforgettable experience” and “a very out of this world sort of thing”. That certainly sounded interesting enough for me so I planned to arrive on February 7, the day before.

Thaipusam is a Hindu festival celebrating the deity, Murugan, and is marked largely by Tamils in India, Sri Lanka, Malaysia, Singapore and Mauritius. Malaysian Tamils created the shrines at the Batu Caves just 13km north of Kuala Lumpur in the late 19th century and, although Thaipusam is celebrated in many states in Malaysia, these caves are the primary location for the festival in the country. Devotees take part in a procession originating in Kuala Lumpur and ending up in the Batu Caves. They shave their heads and carry out acts of kavadi, or burdens, ranging from carrying a pot of milk to piercing of the body flesh, tongue and cheeks with metal hooks or skewers.

As soon as I landed, Vannitha told me that Thaipusam had already started that day and she suggested that we take a short nap and then go directly to the Batu Caves that night. This would be to both avoid the hot sun and also to observe the highest procession traffic before dawn the following day. We set out on our own little pilgrimage around 10pm from the train station in Kuala Lumpur where we found ourselves already among several hundred people crammed into the train’s cars. We then got off a few stops later to switch trains and the crowds gathered at this junction were even larger than before. We squeezed into the very end of the last train car where some young dudes were smokin’ weed (not officially part of the Thaipusam ritual) but made it to the Batu Caves rather quickly.

Once at the caves we joined the thousands of worshipers and other tourists who came out for the festival that night. Over a million people were expected to visit the Batu Caves over this holiday weekend and I felt like I had seen or felt all of them around me. Just walking to the caves was a fascinating and time consuming process. We witnessed all sorts of worshipers bearing kavadi and dancing in a trance-like state with musicians playing all around. We were nearly run over several time by approaching processions of people and the only thing we could do was to just keep on moving forward towards the caves.

272 steps up to the entrance of the Batu Caves

Before climbing to the top of the 272 steps we got a bite to eat first around 3am. I tried my first roti canai which is a thin doughy bread and is known for being both delicious and fattening. We dipped this into some sauces and we were fueled up and ready to go.

We started to climb the steps at at about 4am but the traffic flowed constantly up and down the steps at every hour throughout the night. The beginning of the ascent was slow and it reminded me of being on a roller coaster as it just begins to pull out of the boarding station to make its way up the first incline. We were surrounded on all sides and so it really was like being locked in one position and being forced to move in only one direction. The climb itself proceeded at a moderate pace and so it wasn’t too tiring but I was focused on always looking at the step in front of me and only occasionally did I turn around to see the view behind me.

From the top of the steps the view was spectacular and there was a feeling of accomplishment as an individual and also as part of a group. Of course, you couldn’t really stand at the top of the steps for long because hundreds of people were still making their way up the stairs by the second and needed to land somewhere too. We then spent the next hour or so wandering through the caves, resting and enjoying the cool breeze since the top of the cave is open and air flows freely.

The view from inside of a canopy while descending the stairs

The way down was also exciting and I went so slowly, enjoying the view and taking photos that, at one point, I was overtaken by one of the canopies and I found myself actually underneath it! That was strange and exciting. After we reached the bottom I had so much energy I felt like I could do it all over again but, this time, in the heat of broad daylight…NOT! But I did feel a sense of accomplishment even if it was to climb up the steps carrying only my Nikon D40 as my kavadi. While some of the people around me were in a trance, helping them to endure the pain, I myself was in a trance-like state commonly referred to as “sleepwalking”. I was so tired by about 5am that it was painful to think about the long journey home: walking through the crowds, waiting in line to buy train tickets, waiting for train #1 to arrive, taking the train, buying the next ticket, waiting for and taking train #2, the taxi to Vannitha’s car, driving to her home, riding the elevator…zzzzzzzzzz.

It took both of us a good few days to get back on a regular sleep schedule but when folks asked me, “What do you think so far of Malaysia?”, boy did I have a story to tell. For me it really was a mind-blowing experience to be part of something so huge that night. For Vannitha, she likes to refer to it as a “once in a lifetime experience”, meaning, she really doesn’t see herself doing that again. So, that was my first night in a new country and it was certainly a sign of all of the great things that were to follow.

Tamar & Kevin in Chiang Mai

It’s time to say goodbye to Asia again. I cannot believe 8 weeks have gone by already. I’ve had an incredible time living, working and traveling in South East Asia. It has been a very special experience and I hope its positive effects will stay with me for a while. I’ll admit it though, I miss home.

This morning Kevin and I said goodbye at Chiang Mai airport. We almost missed our flights due to a flower festival in town and had to walk with our bags to the highway where we eventually found a taxi. Luckily we made it in time! I boarded a plane to Bangkok and then switched to another plane heading to HCMC, Vietnam. Tomorrow night I leave for New York (via Tokyo). Kevin boarded a plane to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, which marks the first stop on his three week adventure around Malaysia, Singapore and Vietnam. Be sure to check out the blog for stories, photos and videos of his journey!

I spent the evening in HCMC stuffing myself with Vietnamese food (I missed it terribly) and enjoying drinks outdoors with good friends. The city looks as beautiful as ever and I hope to see it again real soon!

New Year's Celebration in Saigon

In preparing for work in Asia this winter, I knew there would be a lot of challenges. But truthfully, there was one thing that scared me the most about coming out to Vietnam. It wasn’t the fear of working in a foreign country or missing the comforts of home. It wasn’t the risk of getting sick or the difficulty of being away from Kevin and Cuggits. The biggest fear of all was…

KARAOKE

Standing in front of a group of people and singing is pretty much the sum of all fears for me. It took a substantial amount of alcohol last time I did it (which also happens to be the only time I ever did) and I swore to never do it again. I blame it on 10 years spent at the conservatory of music where we had to practice solfège weekly and sing while conducting. It was not fun.

That’s why when my company sent out an email yesterday saying we are all going to celebrate New Year’s in a Karaoke bar, I almost had a heart attack. Singing is a very big part of Asian culture and Vietnam is no exception. EVERYBODY loves Karaoke and feels very comfortable participating. We will be welcoming the new year tonight at a Karaoke venue where I will be downing lots of drinks in order to get up and join the celebration.

If this is any indication of what’s to come in 2009 then it is bound to be a very happy (musical) year.

Happy New Year!

Tien Dat Resort

I am in heaven, also known as Mui Ne beach. I arrived in Phan Thiet very late Wednesday night after a 4.5 hr bus ride from HCMC. Phan Thiet is located north east of HCMC, by the South China sea. It is a very popular beach retreat with Vietnamese and expats alike.

As soon as the bus pulled into Mui Ne, I noticed large fields of dragonfruit trees everywhere. The trees look like a psychedelic cactus and when it’s lit at night, it’s even more magical.

I wake up every morning in my beautiful sea view room at Tien Dat resort to the sound of the waves. My daily routine includes, tanning by the pool, tanning at the beach, lunching with friends at “Sailing Club”, exploring Mui Ne by foot and reading on my porch. It’s definitely exhausting.

All the resorts are located on one stretch lined with coconut trees and excellent seafood BBQ restaurants. In between the resorts, you can sometimes spot a couple of cows or a duck.

This is all so relaxing, I have completely lost sense of time. I think I am going to make this a Christmas tradition.

Merry Christmas!

In the meantime, here is a link to some very festive photos of holiday lights from around Saigon from another fellow blogger in Vietnam.

Merry Christmas!

Kevin & Tamar