The plaque at the Jewish Cemetery of Penang

Malaysia is a country that is jam-packed with diversity including many cultures, environments, foods, terrain and foreign influences throughout its rich history. With all of those great things going for it the question arises as to why Tamar didn’t join me on this visit to Malaysia since we all know she loves these things as much as I do. Well, unfortunately Israel citizens are not permitted to enter Malaysia and Malaysians are not allowed to visit Israel, in fact it even says so in their passports! That’s really too bad for everyone since I’m sure Israelis would have a blast adding Malaysia to their Southeast Asia itineraries and, from some of the young Malaysians I spoke to, there seems to be a fair amount of interest and curiosity about visiting Israel as well.

I started to dig a bit deeper into the current state of Israeli-Malaysian relations and I came across an interesting article written by an Israel professor for whom an exception may have been made (or he holds another passport) since he recently spoke at a conference in Kuala Lumpur. You can read about his impressions of Malaysia and its cultural diversity as well as his experiences with colleagues and conference attendees.

As with anything related to Internet research one thing led to another and I found myself looking into whether there is or ever was a Jewish community in Malaysia. After all, there are thousands of Jews in Iran and nobody from Israel is hopping on a plane to vacation in Iran these days or vice-versa. It turns out that there is a very small Jewish community in Malaysia although it was larger in the past. That past is now represented by the Jewish cemetery that still exists today in the middle of Georgetown on the island of Penang. There were a couple of articles written about this cemetery and they gave me the idea that I could just rent a motorbike and drive around looking for it myself.

The cemetery previously existed on Jalan Yahudi which is Malay for “Jewish Street”. However, the street has since been renamed Jalan Zainal Abidin. I asked a couple of people working at my guesthouse if they knew where that street is or if they’ve even heard of the Jewish Cemetery there but only one person knew the location of the currently named street but he wasn’t familiar with the cemetery. I set out on my motorbike to find Jalan Zainal Abidin and, although it would’ve been a far walk, it only took me about ten minutes to find the cemetery.

The clearly marked gate to the Jewish Cemetery

The gated entrance was clearly marked, “Jewish Cemeter” so I knew I was in the right place. The gate appeared locked with a padlock but there was a man on the other side who told me to just open it up myself but to be sure to not let his dog run out (the key was in the padlock). Aside from that man I didn’t see anyone else in the cemetery so it was just me and the tombstones, at least at first.

The oldest grave that is clearly marked

I wandered around trying to make out whatever I could which was challenging because of the poor condition of some of the inscriptions on the tombs as well as the Hebrew which wasn’t always the modern, newspaper text I’m more used to reading. However, after about five minutes of going it alone I was joined by an older man and his young son who came out to greet me. The man’s name was Raju and he was the caretaker of the premises. He took me around to several areas of the cemetery pointing out various tombs and explaining a bit about each one. He pointed out the oldest grave as well as the most recent. He showed me where a father and son were buried next to each other and also where a fallen Lieutenant in the British India Army was buried during WWII. Overall, the cemetery was very well preserved and there was no visible sign of any intentional destruction. The members of the community are truly resting in peace.

Tombstone of a fallen WWII soldier

He told me that his parents and grandparents knew many people in Penang’s Jewish community and that he maintains the grounds in honor of his family’s relationship and for no real compensation (although he accepts small, individual donations from visitors). Over the years he’s met many of the deceased’s family members who come from the UK or other countries to visit the graves and he actually gathers many clues about the people buried there from the families themselves even if he or his family never knew all of the individuals personally. He said there are very few Jews still in Penang, if any at all. The residents of the streets surrounding the cemetery continue to reflect Malaysia’s current mix of cultures: Malays, Chinese and Indians but there are no longer Jews on what was once Jalan Yahudi.

View my photos from the Jewish Cemetery in Penang.

From reading a bit about Malaysia’s Jewish Community and the Jewish Cemetery on Wikipedia, I’ve discovered that many of the descendants of the community are actually in New York!

Kevin's US Naturalization Certificate (1979)

The problem the first time was that the Vietnamese Embassy wanted to see further proof that I was previously a Vietnamese citizen prior to becoming an American citizen. I have no official Vietnamese documents that prove that such as an old Vietnamese identity card or passport. However, once I sent in a copy of my US Naturalization Certificate they were able to see that the “Country of former nationality” was “Vietnam” and this was sufficient proof that I was previously a “Vietnamese citizen”. On a side note, one thing I love about this Certificate of Naturalization is that I weighed only 30 pounds and still they thought to indicate that my “marital status” was “single”.

So what does getting the Certificate of Visa Exemption mean in practical terms? This means that I can enter Vietnam multiple times for the next 5 years without ever needing to apply for or pay for a tourist visa. I’m not sure how long I’m allowed to stay each time or if there’s a maximum number of visits or days in the country that I’m permitted within any given year. But for the short, annual trip to Vietnam this is perfect.

When I landed at the airport in Ho Chi Minh City I noticed that there was also a special line set up for holders of the “Certificate of Visa Exemption”. There were about three people in front of me in that line which was shorter than the lines for holders of “Vietnamese Passports” or “All Passports”. My passport picture features a full head of hair and no glasses so in order to pass inspection by the immigration officer I had to remove my glasses and look serious for a second but after that I was quickly on my way to collect my baggage.

Now, thanks to the visa exemption, instead of spending money on numerous Visa applications and USPS Express Mail services I can now blow all of my cash inside of Vietnam as was likely intended. Sounds fair to me!

Hainan Association and Temple

Today was my first day in Penang, Malaysia. I actually started my visit to Malaysia over the weekend but I’ll have to write more about that exciting weekend in another post.

I woke up much later than I usually do in Asia because the guesthouse I’m staying in has no windows. It turns out that windows in guesthouses in the center of Georgetown, in Penang, are somewhat of a rarity. I’m staying at the Banana guesthouse and besides the windows situation it’s very clean and conveniently located in the middle of the backpacker strip, complete with a travel agency, cafe and free WIFI.

For breakfast I picked up a steamed bun with vegetables in the middle. I’m not sure what they call them here but they’re called bun bao in Vietnam. I was still hungry but I didn’t want to delay my walk around Georgetown since the day was already hot and was rapidly getting even hotter. I walked down a small street called Love Lane which leads into Chinatown and I passed several other guesthouses and homes. My first stop was to the Hainan Cultural Center where I was the only soul to be found. Even the person tending the desk at the entrance was off on a break somewhere. It’s always nice when you can wander into a place, snap some photos and hear the sound of silence around you.

Cheong Fat Tze Mansion

I then walked over to the Cheong Fat Tze Mansion which is a beautifully designed and decorated mansion turned hotel that was originally commissioned by a wealthy Chinese entrepreneur in the 1880s. I considered spending a few nights there (they have windows) but I think I’ll just take the tour they offer at 11am and 3pm each day.

Re-creation of lodging at the Kota Cornwallis

From there I passed many colonial buildings leading to the waterfront on the Straits of Malacca including two churches, a school, the Supreme Court, Town Hall and City Hall. It’s amazing to see these impressive European structures just minutes from equally impressive mosques and temples and from Asian cultures. On the waterfront I spent a good hour at least hanging out at Kota Cornwallis (kota means fort) which was built by Captain Francis Light in 1786 for the East India Company. The fort features a chapel, gunpowder magazine, lighthouse and an historic gallery. What I enjoyed the most was the recreation of two tents under a huge tree where I sat for a while to rest and read up on the other sites in Penang.

I went to lunch at a typical eatery between Chinatown and Little India where I ate char kway teow, a sort of stir fry with rice noodles, egg, veggies, shrimp and Chinese sausage. I shared my table with an older Chinese man, a lawyer born and raised in Penang (educated in London), who had some encouraging things to say about inter-ethnic relations and tolerance in Malaysia. In contrast, he held a less positive view towards the current education system offered to students today, particularly the level of English which, in his view, is quickly going downhill. I really enjoyed our casual chat and his particular insight into Malaysian society.

I then walked through Little India passed the garment shops and food stalls and snapped a few more photos. I stopped at the Kapitan Keling Mosque where I received a very nice tour and explanation from one of the administrators there. Read all about my visit to this beautiful mosque in my other post: A Tour and a Talk at Penang’s Kapitan Keling Mosque. I then picked up a SIM card for my phone and I was intrigued by the fact that the store owners recorded my name and passport number in order to register me with the phone number. When I returned to the Banana Guesthouse I took advantage of my air conditioned room and rested there to check email and offload my photos.

Wanton Mee with roast pork

That night I went for a walk and I was lured into a small restaurant by the smell of roasted pork. I ate a very nice wanton mee soup which is a noodle soup with wantons and roasted pork, something I’ve had at least 3 or 4 times already since arriving in Malaysia last weekend (sometimes I get it dry on a plate as opposed to in a soup). But that’s not enough food! I kept on walking until I realized I was already sweating again from the humidity, only 1/2 hour after taking my last shower. I stopped off at the fancy Cititel Hotel for an upscale sushi dinner at Kirishima. I was actually on the way to a seafood restaurant in the back of the hotel but, since it was still Thaipusam, this and several other restaurants were closed that day. The sushi, although at New York prices, was great and it was a nice break from fried food and pork.

On the way back to the guesthouse I walked down the lovely Lebuh Campbell which was a street lit up with red lanterns all along the way. It was a beautiful sight and I’ve since returned to that same street to eat dim sum for this morning’s breakfast.

I just returned from a fabulous weekend in Singapore. I enjoyed every little street, dish, neighborhood, park, drink and mall (yes, I admit it).

I arrived late in the evening and went straight to my hostel “Hangout @Mt. Emily” which was perfect. The hostel is located in Little India at a top of a hill, right by a beautiful park. It has a great vibe and a gorgeous rooftop deck with beautiful view of the city. It has been a long time since I last stayed at a youth hostel but I was glad to see nothing has changed, not even the browser version on the public computers.

I spent the first morning in Little India exploring the shops, temples and houses. Every alley was so picturesque with quaint houses and lots of colorful shutters. People in traditional outfits were rushing to work or going to temple to offer a gift to the gods.

From little India, I crossed straight into to the Arab Quarter. As I was entering the Arab Quarter, the smell of curry was replaced by a strong smell of coffee. Mmmm. This neighborhood was simply gorgeous. Much of it has been renovated and it is so aesthetically pleasing. Small coffee shops are nestled between designer stores and beautiful mosques. So much of it reminded me of the Middle East, certain streets looked a lot like Jaffa and Neve Tzedek (Tel Aviv). By lunch time, I was so homesick and just had to get Egyptian food on Arab St (Cafe Le Caire), it was excellent. I chatted with the restaurant owner for a bit and got a long list of recommendations of things to see and taste while in Singapore.

I spent the whole afternoon walking around CBD (Central Biz District) and Chinatown. It’s amazing to think this area used to be full of secret societies, opium dens and crime. There is none of that left. Instead, the neighborhood is one of the most colorful ones I’ve seen. The shophouses, the bustling markets and great food make it a great place to visit and walk around. I got to speak a little Mandarin and was able to read a few signs which made me 高兴 (happy).

One of the things I enjoyed most in Singapore is the number of parks and massive greenery everywhere. The whole city feels like a tropical island with luscious green trees, many of which are not originally from Singapore. I spent a few hours on Saturday walking around the Botanic Gardens with friends admiring the plants and great orchid garden.

Getting around Singapore is so easy and convenient. The super clean and mighty fast subway system (MRT) gets you everywhere in no time. Every station name is announced in three languages: English, Mandarin and Hindi (how about that MTA?!). The signage is great and if you still somehow get lost, a friendly Singaporean is always happy to help.

So what’s with the shopping??
Everybody told me that Singapore is all about the shopping (which is why I was hesitant to go). My original plan was to visit Singapore without doing any shopping. I realize that is much like going to Vegas without gambling but given my lack of patience for malls, I thought I’d better skip the whole thing. Shopping in Singapore turned out to be an extraordinary experience. I really liked a lot of the local labels, it is so very chic and reasonably priced! I spent two hours going in and out of stylish malls on Orchard Rd and managed to buy 2 skirts, 3 tops and 1 pillow case, not bad.

Sunday morning I visited the Asian Civilizations Museum which is housed in a grand colonial building. The museum features many interactive displays and screens videos on the floor, doors and screens. It was very interesting and I learned a great deal about this great continent.

Sitting outside the museum by the Quay, I had my palm read by a Yogi. He was a very nice man, he also happened to say a couple of accurate things…

Singapore was definitely a lot more exciting than I had expected. Its multiculturalism is fascinating, the food is a real delight and yes, the shopping is like no other place. I would definitely like to go back and see more.

Check out the three new photo albums for Singapore!

The application was rejected for the following reasons:

1) The barcode number at the bottom of the form was cut off from the page – I think the form must be for the A4 paper size and doesn’t automatically fit on an 8.5″ x 11″ page. My second assumption is that nobody at the Embassy actually uses a barcode scanner and that they must rely on the printed number.
2) Incorrect name/passport/date of birth – They requested that I supply a name change document or US citizenship certificate with my “correct name” and proof of original Vietnamese citizenship. I think their assumption is that most Vietnamese have a Vietnamese name, become a US citizen and somewhere around that time they choose to legally change their name from “Binh Nguyen” to “Bob Newhart”. Of course, I was 10 months old when I was adopted and since I was found as an abandoned baby, nobody knows my Vietnamese name or my actual date of birth. Needless to say I was never issued a Vietnamese passport or any other formal proof of Vietnamese citizenship prior to being airlifted out of Saigon in April 1975.

So, what was I able to send them this time around? Not much more. However, I did send the following documents:

1) A copy of my US Naturalization certificate from 1979 which includes my “country of former nationality, Vietnam”.
2) A copy of my adoption certificate, dated August 1976, which doesn’t say much other than that I was adopted (doesn’t say from where)
3) A note for “#23, Nguyen Ai Quoc” (that’s me, SP-23! and my temporary Vietnamese name) that says:

Blurb about me, SP-23, Nguyen Ai Quoc

4) I also sent this additional photo as further, indisputable proof of how cute I was.

Kevin with the same worried look he has today, "Will they give me the visa exemption?"

I rushed to the post office for a repeat of the Express Mail ceremony. It costs $16 to send the application, including my passport, each way and since I’m running out of time I need to include the self-addressed, stamped envelope and pay for that too. So, what started out as a $20 visa exemption is now up to $84 ($20 + $16 x 4). It’s a bit of a gamble in terms of time and money but if my application is accepted then I’ll save a lot of both over the next 5 years, especially without needing to worry about multi-entry in and out of Vietnam as I travel to other countries in the region. The embassy worker I spoke to over the phone sounded very nice even though I think I totally confused her with my “I don’t know my name or my birth date”. I’m keeping my fingers crossed and I should probably be ready to rush in a regular visa application if I get rejected for the visa exemption a second time. I’m supposed to leave in exactly 2 weeks and I still don’t have a visa! That reminds me, I still need to confirm my airline ticket too!

For information regarding the new 5-year visa exemption for Vietnamese-born people, click here!

Example of a Visa Exemption in a Passport

Great news! As of fall 2008 Vietnam has established visa exemptions for Viet Kieu (Vietnamese overseas). In theory, that means that as a Vietnamese-born person I can apply for an exemption ($20 the first time, only $10 for subsequent applications) and receive a visa exemption valid for 5 years! That’s awesome! That sure beats the expensive cost of getting a 1-3 month visa, especially a multi-entry visa, which is more expensive (with expedited shipping this can add up to well over $100). And I wouldn’t need to worry about visa issues for 5 years at a time which saves time and money. Ahh, membership has its privileges. As an adoptee I hope that they accept my paperwork since it’s different and not as complete as my fellow Viet Kieu, most of whom left Vietnam with their families and parents who were already Vietnamese citizens. I was only 10 months old and so I never had a Vietnamese passport and there’s very little in the way of documentation about me in Vietnam during the war. I have to call the Vietnamese Mission to the UN (an official Vietnamese office here in NY) first thing on Monday morning to get some questions answered. I guess we’ll just have to see how the application process goes!

For information regarding the new 5-year visa exemption for Vietnamese-born people, click here!

photo credit: JasonDGreat

Thailand has a new prime minister and the country looks to be bouncing back from its relatively brief period of instability caused by mass protests and the blockage of Thai airports. The airports have reopened and things are returning to normal. We’re following the news closely as we prepare for our upcoming trip. Even if nobody closes down the islands and beaches we still may need to enter the country by plane so we’re hoping that there will be no further disruptions to the Thai way of life as well as our upcoming visit. Read more about the current situation here: Thai PM vows to restore stability – CNN.com.

Tamar got a round trip ticket to HCMC, Vietnam on Japan Airlines for $1,440 including taxes and the additional $70 for weekend travel (both ways) with only 1 stop over in Tokyo. This fare was on sale for a limited time and would normally cost over $1,800. The taxes alone are over $700, half the price of the entire ticket. FYI: Weekend travel is Friday to Monday and costs an extra $35 each way if travel begins on one of these days.

I tried to book my ticket for departure mid-January but no such luck…no yet. I’m wait listed on Korean Air and Happy tells me that I should be able to get a sale price on JAL about a month before my intended departure, Jan 17th. Otherwise my ticket would also cost over $1,800 and Happy just doesn’t want me to pay that! I’ll just have to wait until the middle of December for the sale to come around. However, availability may become a problem since it’s just before Tet and the Chinese New Year (Jan 26, 2009).

Wa Minh Travel arranges visas for Vietnam (or anywhere else) for about $60 extra but they can’t procure multi-entry visas spanning more than a month which is what Tamar and I both need for this trip. For that you must apply directly with the Vietnamese embassy which never lists prices on their website and they have really limited phone hours.

We’re still up several hundred bucks from the $1050 round trip with Korean Air that I got in 2006 (including the visa) but international travel is just really pricey these days. Fortunately, the pho in the street is hot, delicious and still costs under a dollar!

One idea that I am excited about is renting a motorcycle and traveling through north of Thailand. From reading online, it sounds like the roads are in good condition both in the east and west, and lead you through stunning views. The challenge will be, of course, avoiding the masses of young travelers who flock into Chiang Mai area.

I really wanted to finally make it to China. I have been trying to go to China for 4 years now and every time, something else comes up. People seem to think that backpacking through China in winter is a bad idea (a Chinese friend of mine has confirmed it) and since I think NY Fall is cold enough, we decided to  skip that plan. We have been known to change our minds (and route) many times but, for now, it is looking like:

Hong Kong>Thailand (north and islands)>Singapore>Vietnam

To be continued…