A view of the Pai River from the nearby mountain

We’ve just uploaded photos from our last two days in Pai. Instead of joining an organized trekking tour, we decided to ride around by ourselves and explore different villages, waterfalls, wats and farmland. It was fabulous.

Check out the photos from day 3 and day 4.

We are now back in Chiang Mai packing our bags and getting ready to say goodbye to each other and to Thailand. Tomorrow morning we both fly out of Chiang Mai – I am flying back to HCMC for 1 night before flying back home (via Tokyo) and Kevin is flying to Malaysia to start his adventure!

Pam Bok Waterfall Near Pai

We’ve uploaded new photo albums from our first two days here in Pai in the North of Thailand. Check out photos of our motorbike travels:

Pai, Thailand – Day 1
Pai, Thailand – Day 2

We decided to skip the included “American Breakfast” as it’s called and cross the street for something a bit more interesting and healthy. We first dropped off our dirty laundry, also across the tiny street, where they wash your clothes for 20 Baht (50 cents) and it’s ready by 6PM the same day. The breakfast cafe was small and charming with statues, flowers and little offerings of food in dishes which the passing dogs seemed to enjoy very much. Tamar had a fruit, yogurt and muesli cup and I enjoyed a mushroom crepe and some very strong and good coffee.

We rented a motorbike yesterday and we’ll probably keep it for the entire week that we’re here. Motorbikes are only 100 Baht here in Pai which is about $2.50 and you can fill up the tank for about the same price so it’s just good to have a bike handy for whenever you might need it. However, the air is so cool and clear in the morning that we plan to go on mini-excursions each morning before the afternoon heat arrives.

Narrow walkway along the Pai Canyon

Today we ventured South past the turnoff to the waterfall we visited yesterday, our current destination being the Pai Canyon. The travel agent we spoke to in town apologized to us in advance that it’s “much smaller than the Grand Canyon” and she told us to not be disappointed. It’s true that if Las Vegas were to create a “Grand Canyon, the Experience” theme park it would be roughly the size of the Pai Canyon but with the mountain view and trees everywhere it was really a nice place to visit. Many narrow natural walkways or dirt paved ridges surrounded the canyon, most of them looking too precarious to even attempt. The view from the canyon was beautiful.

We then continued further South to the “WWII Bridge” which was an old steel bridge over the Pai River. This was actually the same location from which we set out on the previous day’s bamboo raft journey down the river. From the bridge we could see several miles of farmland extending all the way to the surrounding mountains.

Water buffalo in the fields near the Mae Yen Waterfall

We decided to visit another waterfall to the East of Pai and we stopped for lunch along the way. While waiting for our food I set out on foot down the road a bit to photograph some water buffalo. I got pretty close to one who was near enough to the roadside but I think the real camera worthy moment must have been me jumping up and down, waiving my arms and making noises trying to get the buffalo’s attention for my own photo.

We followed the flow of water while driving on a narrow dirt road through fields of crops until the road ended in the shade. We found out that the waterfall was another seven kilometers walk from there. Since this was the hottest time of the day we decided it would be best to return for the hike to the waterfall tomorrow morning when it’s still cool and we weren’t stuffed from eating such a large lunch.

Back in Pai we have WIFI Internet, electricity and a large selection of organic, vegetarian food (and seafood) and fresh baked goods at a nice restaurant called “The Sanctuary” just along the river. It’s the perfect place to chill out during the peak of the day’s heat and to catch up on our blogging!

Tin Tin Up Close

Going to the north of Thailand without riding an elephant is a little like going to Vegas without gambling. Yesterday, on our first full day in Pai, we decided to go elephant riding in the afternoon. For our journey, we got “Tin Tin”, a huge female elephant who doesn’t look a day older than 412. Tin Tin, as we learned moments later, is a moody girl with a serious gas problem (the two are related, I suspect).

We rode on Tin Tin’s back, along with our guide, Chai, and were focusing very hard to not fall off. It is very tricky to hold on to the ropes and balance on top of a huge elephant. In addition to being challenging, it is also PAINFUL. Tin Tin had rough skin and very sharp prickly hair that rubbed against our legs as we were holding on tightly. Our guide was yelling orders at her the whole journey to the river but she was disobeying every single one, my kind of girl!

After what seemed like an hour (but really covered only a few hundred meters), we finally reached the river. This was where the real fun began. The water transformed Tin Tin from a grumpy old lady into a playful little girl. She had a great time splashing water on us, dropping us into the river and turning from side to side dipping one of us at a time in the brown waters. We got a real taste of the rodeo and were both super sore. We could barely walk away when the ride was over and we swore to wait another decade (at least) before the next ride.

Bamboo Rafting down the River

Next followed a special treat – we were met by another guy who took us down the river on a bamboo raft. As this is the dry season, the river was very calm and the ride peaceful. We got to see all kinds of animals on the way and wave to people going about their business by the river. The trip ended with the sunset behind the Pai mountains. It was gorgeous.

One of the many dirt roads around Koh Mak

We decided to end our week long stay on the islands by spending two nights in Koh Mak – a smaller island off of Koh Chang. We took a slow boat from Koh Chang’s fisherman’s village and an hour later we were on a gorgeous new island. Even before getting off the boat, I could already see that the water was crystal clean turquoise and the scenery resembled one of those posters you see in a tour agency. Koh Mak is definitely less touristy than Koh Chang with far less resorts, restaurants and activities. There are stretches of land where you see nothing but trees (and dogs). It is very quiet and somewhat secluded, a perfect romantic getaway.

We stayed at “Monkey Island” in a simple bungalow with a bed, mosquito net and an outdoor shower attached to the room (there is no ceiling, showering is done under the stars). In the evening, we listened to a live acoustic Thai music performance at the resort sitting a few steps from the beach. Can’t say I liked the music but I definitely enjoyed the atmosphere. In the middle of our first night we woke up to the sound of a major downpour. We were surprised by how dry everything stayed inside of the cabin but we both got soaked going out to the bathroom.

Learning to ride the bike on Koh Mak

The best way to explore the island is by riding a motorbike. We wanted to be sure to try every single beach and sample every dish around (not very hard to do as I counted 3 restaurants in total, not including resorts). Last year, while on Phu Quoc island in Vietnam, Kevin started teaching me how to ride the motorcycle. I am guessing there are still a few locals in Phu Quoc laughing their heart out at that unforgettable driving lesson. While in Koh Mak, we decided to try again, we were on a deserted island after all. This time, we rented an automatic bike and it made a huge difference! After a 10min lesson in the resort’s parking lot, I drove out to the main street and started riding around. We rode around on dirt paths exploring hidden paths and pristine beaches. It was super fun! Here are some photos from Koh Mak.

On Thursday morning, we left the island and embarked on a full day’s journey to Chiang Mai, all the way in the north of Thailand. A speedboat, minivan, bus, plane and taxi later, we were settling into our charming room at the guesthouse.

I just returned from a fabulous weekend in Singapore. I enjoyed every little street, dish, neighborhood, park, drink and mall (yes, I admit it).

I arrived late in the evening and went straight to my hostel “Hangout @Mt. Emily” which was perfect. The hostel is located in Little India at a top of a hill, right by a beautiful park. It has a great vibe and a gorgeous rooftop deck with beautiful view of the city. It has been a long time since I last stayed at a youth hostel but I was glad to see nothing has changed, not even the browser version on the public computers.

I spent the first morning in Little India exploring the shops, temples and houses. Every alley was so picturesque with quaint houses and lots of colorful shutters. People in traditional outfits were rushing to work or going to temple to offer a gift to the gods.

From little India, I crossed straight into to the Arab Quarter. As I was entering the Arab Quarter, the smell of curry was replaced by a strong smell of coffee. Mmmm. This neighborhood was simply gorgeous. Much of it has been renovated and it is so aesthetically pleasing. Small coffee shops are nestled between designer stores and beautiful mosques. So much of it reminded me of the Middle East, certain streets looked a lot like Jaffa and Neve Tzedek (Tel Aviv). By lunch time, I was so homesick and just had to get Egyptian food on Arab St (Cafe Le Caire), it was excellent. I chatted with the restaurant owner for a bit and got a long list of recommendations of things to see and taste while in Singapore.

I spent the whole afternoon walking around CBD (Central Biz District) and Chinatown. It’s amazing to think this area used to be full of secret societies, opium dens and crime. There is none of that left. Instead, the neighborhood is one of the most colorful ones I’ve seen. The shophouses, the bustling markets and great food make it a great place to visit and walk around. I got to speak a little Mandarin and was able to read a few signs which made me 高兴 (happy).

One of the things I enjoyed most in Singapore is the number of parks and massive greenery everywhere. The whole city feels like a tropical island with luscious green trees, many of which are not originally from Singapore. I spent a few hours on Saturday walking around the Botanic Gardens with friends admiring the plants and great orchid garden.

Getting around Singapore is so easy and convenient. The super clean and mighty fast subway system (MRT) gets you everywhere in no time. Every station name is announced in three languages: English, Mandarin and Hindi (how about that MTA?!). The signage is great and if you still somehow get lost, a friendly Singaporean is always happy to help.

So what’s with the shopping??
Everybody told me that Singapore is all about the shopping (which is why I was hesitant to go). My original plan was to visit Singapore without doing any shopping. I realize that is much like going to Vegas without gambling but given my lack of patience for malls, I thought I’d better skip the whole thing. Shopping in Singapore turned out to be an extraordinary experience. I really liked a lot of the local labels, it is so very chic and reasonably priced! I spent two hours going in and out of stylish malls on Orchard Rd and managed to buy 2 skirts, 3 tops and 1 pillow case, not bad.

Sunday morning I visited the Asian Civilizations Museum which is housed in a grand colonial building. The museum features many interactive displays and screens videos on the floor, doors and screens. It was very interesting and I learned a great deal about this great continent.

Sitting outside the museum by the Quay, I had my palm read by a Yogi. He was a very nice man, he also happened to say a couple of accurate things…

Singapore was definitely a lot more exciting than I had expected. Its multiculturalism is fascinating, the food is a real delight and yes, the shopping is like no other place. I would definitely like to go back and see more.

Check out the three new photo albums for Singapore!

Floating Market, Can Tho

This is my third visit to Vietnam, I have seen many of the wonderful sights all along the country but have never visited the Mekong Delta before. I have always wanted to go and see the southwest of Vietnam where the Mekong river ends its long journey from China through Myanmar, Laos, Thailand and Cambodia.

This past weekend I went to visit my friend Thi Bay in Can Tho, the largest city in the Mekong Delta. After a 5hr bus ride from HCMC through rice fields, villages and towns, I was finally at the campus where Thi Bay lives. Six months ago, Thi Bay left NY for a teaching position at Can Tho University and a chance to reconnect with her Vietnamese roots (her grandfather was Vietnamese, a fact she has to repeat 5 times a day on average). In a short time, Thi Bay has become somewhat of a local star in a city that has very few foreigners. From students walking by to the Xe Om drivers outside the gate, everybody knows her and wants to have a little chat.

I spent my first evening walking around Ninh Kieu Quay by the river where dozens of cafes offer a romantic setting and great drinks. It also happens to be the place where young couples make out by night and get married by day (lots of wedding halls all along the river).

The next morning, I got up at 5:45AM (!!) and hurried to meet another friend from HCMC, Nga, who was waiting for me by the river. Nga and I hired a private boat and went on a 4 hr boat ride up and down the river. First we visited Phong Dien floating market where merchants from all around the area come to buy fruit and vegetables for their stores/stands. The whole transaction takes place from the boats: the sellers tie a sample of their produce to a pole to indicate what’s on sale and the buyers approach with their boats to buy coconut, pineapple, dragonfruit, watermelon or any other fruit of the day. Many of the sellers live with their families on their boat, some even have their pets with them.

After the floating market, Nga, who is originally from Can Tho, suggested we visit the My Khanh resort. The resort used to be farmland but in the past 4 years, it has been transformed into a hotel with its own little zoo. I saw so many animals! Snakes, crocodiles, monkeys, pigs, bats, frogs all living rent free at this beautiful resort. We stopped for a nice snack and drink in one of the small restaurants at the resort. We then got back on the boat and went to a family farm to the north. The farm also had many animals and trees all around and I saw the largest snake ever, I never want to see it outside its cage.

Later in the afternoon, Thi Bay and I went to visit the Khmer Pagoda in the city and walked around the beautiful alleyways of Can Tho stopping to eat every couple of hours…The food in Can Tho is simply excellent, I tried many new dishes for the first time and liked them all. Even the fruit tastes better in Can Tho.

Life runs slower in Can Tho, everyone is very calm and smiley. The only ones working double time are the mosquitoes. Sitting at outdoor cafes at night is fun but adds about 20 new bites each time. As I am not taking Malaria pills this time around, I was hoping these mosquitoes were of the friendly kind. Animals are an integral part of life in Can Tho. At Thi Bay’s place, there are 5 geckos and 3 frogs at any given time, she even had a snake recently! She tried to reassure me by saying that she’s not sure whether it was a green Mamba or a Python, I was feeling real calm after that. AHHHH!

I got to meet Thi Bay’s friend and neighbor, Anh To who is a student at Can Tho. Since both Thi Bay and Anh To were attending weddings that weekend, the conversation naturally drifted to wedding customs. Anh To told me that in Vietnam, the bride’s family traditionally sends a pig’s head to the groom’s family on the night of the wedding. If the bride turns out to not be a virgin, god forbid, then the groom’s family cuts off the pig’s ear and sends it back to the bride’s family the following day. Depending on how mad they are, they might even send the bride back. It really made me laugh as I was thinking of all the pigs’ ears that would need to be Fedex’ed in the U.S. if such a custom existed.

On Saturday I decided to take a speedboat back to HCMC instead of the bus so I could enjoy a few more hours on the river. The journey back was so very peaceful until about 10 minutes before we reached the city. The guys running the boat, managed to miscalculate the amount of gas we need in order to get back and we got stuck with no gas in the middle of the Mekong. We were right at the entrance to the port and I could already see HCMC from afar. Within minutes, huge cruise line ships were coming our way honking very loudly so that we would get out of the way not knowing we are stuck and cannot move. Troi Oi!!! (OMG) Stranded at sea with no way to signal to them that we are stuck. Luckily, another boat towed our boat to the banks of the river so that we don’t get run over by one of the bigger ships. The guys called their office and through someone translating the drama into English, I learned that help was on the way. Another piece of good news was that the weird sounding baby cry from the back of the boat was in fact, a real live chicken inside someone’s bag. If we were to get stuck for a while, at least we had dinner.

About 45min later our boat was refueled and we continued on to HCMC. Quite an adventure!

It was a fabulous weekend and a great way to start the new year.

photo credit: JasonDGreat

Thailand has a new prime minister and the country looks to be bouncing back from its relatively brief period of instability caused by mass protests and the blockage of Thai airports. The airports have reopened and things are returning to normal. We’re following the news closely as we prepare for our upcoming trip. Even if nobody closes down the islands and beaches we still may need to enter the country by plane so we’re hoping that there will be no further disruptions to the Thai way of life as well as our upcoming visit. Read more about the current situation here: Thai PM vows to restore stability – CNN.com.