Hainan Association and Temple

Today was my first day in Penang, Malaysia. I actually started my visit to Malaysia over the weekend but I’ll have to write more about that exciting weekend in another post.

I woke up much later than I usually do in Asia because the guesthouse I’m staying in has no windows. It turns out that windows in guesthouses in the center of Georgetown, in Penang, are somewhat of a rarity. I’m staying at the Banana guesthouse and besides the windows situation it’s very clean and conveniently located in the middle of the backpacker strip, complete with a travel agency, cafe and free WIFI.

For breakfast I picked up a steamed bun with vegetables in the middle. I’m not sure what they call them here but they’re called bun bao in Vietnam. I was still hungry but I didn’t want to delay my walk around Georgetown since the day was already hot and was rapidly getting even hotter. I walked down a small street called Love Lane which leads into Chinatown and I passed several other guesthouses and homes. My first stop was to the Hainan Cultural Center where I was the only soul to be found. Even the person tending the desk at the entrance was off on a break somewhere. It’s always nice when you can wander into a place, snap some photos and hear the sound of silence around you.

Cheong Fat Tze Mansion

I then walked over to the Cheong Fat Tze Mansion which is a beautifully designed and decorated mansion turned hotel that was originally commissioned by a wealthy Chinese entrepreneur in the 1880s. I considered spending a few nights there (they have windows) but I think I’ll just take the tour they offer at 11am and 3pm each day.

Re-creation of lodging at the Kota Cornwallis

From there I passed many colonial buildings leading to the waterfront on the Straits of Malacca including two churches, a school, the Supreme Court, Town Hall and City Hall. It’s amazing to see these impressive European structures just minutes from equally impressive mosques and temples and from Asian cultures. On the waterfront I spent a good hour at least hanging out at Kota Cornwallis (kota means fort) which was built by Captain Francis Light in 1786 for the East India Company. The fort features a chapel, gunpowder magazine, lighthouse and an historic gallery. What I enjoyed the most was the recreation of two tents under a huge tree where I sat for a while to rest and read up on the other sites in Penang.

I went to lunch at a typical eatery between Chinatown and Little India where I ate char kway teow, a sort of stir fry with rice noodles, egg, veggies, shrimp and Chinese sausage. I shared my table with an older Chinese man, a lawyer born and raised in Penang (educated in London), who had some encouraging things to say about inter-ethnic relations and tolerance in Malaysia. In contrast, he held a less positive view towards the current education system offered to students today, particularly the level of English which, in his view, is quickly going downhill. I really enjoyed our casual chat and his particular insight into Malaysian society.

I then walked through Little India passed the garment shops and food stalls and snapped a few more photos. I stopped at the Kapitan Keling Mosque where I received a very nice tour and explanation from one of the administrators there. Read all about my visit to this beautiful mosque in my other post: A Tour and a Talk at Penang’s Kapitan Keling Mosque. I then picked up a SIM card for my phone and I was intrigued by the fact that the store owners recorded my name and passport number in order to register me with the phone number. When I returned to the Banana Guesthouse I took advantage of my air conditioned room and rested there to check email and offload my photos.

Wanton Mee with roast pork

That night I went for a walk and I was lured into a small restaurant by the smell of roasted pork. I ate a very nice wanton mee soup which is a noodle soup with wantons and roasted pork, something I’ve had at least 3 or 4 times already since arriving in Malaysia last weekend (sometimes I get it dry on a plate as opposed to in a soup). But that’s not enough food! I kept on walking until I realized I was already sweating again from the humidity, only 1/2 hour after taking my last shower. I stopped off at the fancy Cititel Hotel for an upscale sushi dinner at Kirishima. I was actually on the way to a seafood restaurant in the back of the hotel but, since it was still Thaipusam, this and several other restaurants were closed that day. The sushi, although at New York prices, was great and it was a nice break from fried food and pork.

On the way back to the guesthouse I walked down the lovely Lebuh Campbell which was a street lit up with red lanterns all along the way. It was a beautiful sight and I’ve since returned to that same street to eat dim sum for this morning’s breakfast.

The Pool at the Coral Resort, Kaibe Beach

We stayed a total of seven nights on the island of Koh Chang and four of those were at a very nice resort, the Coral Resort, located at the northern end of Kaibe Beach. This is not a huge resort or even a fancy resort like the ones a bit further North at Klong Prao Beach. But this resort had what we needed and more.

We opted for a private cabin with air-conditioning which ran us 2,000 Thai Baht ($53) a night. Identical cabins with a sea view were 2,500 but from our cabin the sea was still visible between the neighboring “sea-view cabins”. Walking about 20 meters brought us to the edge of the sea for an unobstructed view.

The cabin was really very nice. For starters it was quite spacious and hexagonal in shape. the ceilings were very high and the structure was a combination of painted cement and wood which was attractive and clean looking. Each cabin had its own stairway and balcony that wrapped around a third of the cabin, facing in the direction of the sea. There were plenty of windows for fresh air but the AC was a nice defense against the mid-day heat and the mosquitoes at night. The bathroom was particularly nice with a large shower.

Probably the single most attractive part of the resort was the large swimming pool situated between the restaurant, the massage tables and the sea. The views from the pool looked out over the water and it was simply stunning. Most of the resorts on Koh Chang face west and so sunsets are incredible to watch from any part of this resort.

Massage was very nice and only 250 Baht for one hour. However, for an amazing massage or spa treatment we recommend Bodiwork Spa located on the main road.

Coral Resort doesn’t really have its own beach but you can walk just a bit to get to a strip of beach from the neighboring resort, still within sight of Coral. We’ve found the other resorts on Koh Chang (and on Koh Mak) to be very relaxed in terms of hanging out on their sands, even sitting in their beach chairs when we’re not staying at their resort. Nobody ever asks to see our room key, requests money or tells us to move on.

The restaurant was good but nothing special. The food was tasty but sometimes the portions were rather small. However, the pricing of the dishes was probably less than you would expect from a “resort” anyway. The room included a choice of breakfast and we opted for our daily fruit, yogurt and musli combo which was nice. The neighboring Nang Nual Resort to the South has an even better restaurant which serves an amazing crab with garlic and peppercorns and stays open into the night unlike the restaurant at Coral. The two resorts are under the same family ownership and are separated by a small foot bridge over a canal.

The staff was friendly and professional and this was a smaller relaxed type of place. Tipping is only necessary for housekeeping and possibly at the bar/restaurant since it’s not like there’s a concierge staff or porter carrying your luggage around.

The Coral Resort is only a short walk from the main coastal road and is therefore conveniently located near all of the restaurants, bars and ATMs, 7-Elevens, etc. It’s always nice to have a rented motorbike handy to visit other beaches but it’s well known that Koh Chang is full of steep inclines and winding roads which are only suitable for experienced drivers.

The most interesting part of Coral was the family of animals that also share the resort. All of the animals are domesticated but they add a nice friendly atmosphere and it’s interesting to see them all sort of inhabit the same piece of the island together. There are 2 small pigs (a small one and a tiny one), a cat and several dogs and they all wander around pretty freely or nap in the shade when they’re not busy playing with each other.

One other perk at the Coral Resort was the WIFI access that easily reached our cabin. Prepaid cards are sold at the reception for 100, 250 and 500 Baht for 60, 200 and 500 minutes of WIFI access.

We definitely recommend the Coral Resort for its spacious rooms, beautiful pool, friendly atmosphere and four-legged friends. The clientele is older than what you’d find at the backpacker scene at Lonely Beach and there were a few families with small children. But the resort is very quiet and is a real getaway yet still near enough to the action you might seek on the rest of the island.

Click here to view photos of the Coral Resort!

The Night Lights of Saigon

On our first full day in HCMC we woke up not knowing what time it was since the room we were in at the NY Kim Phuong Hotel (complete with photos of New York in each room) had no windows. We skipped the included pho breakfast (hard to believe one can skip a yummy pho breakfast) in favor of the banh cuon at modern looking joint down the block called “Wrap & Roll”.

Vietnam Airlines has an office next door so we went in to book tickets to Phu Quoc Island. We were told that tickets are nearly sold out and we managed to get the only 2 seats available this week and nothing for a return flight. Fortunately, there’s a ferry/bus combo as an alternative should we get “stuck” on the island.

We then changed our room at the hotel to one with a window and a view on the 9^th floor (out of 10) and a view of the Saigon River. Much better!

We went out to do some clothes shopping since most of our laundry was dirty. This brought us to 3 fancy shopping malls, the Saigon Tax Center, Saigon Center and Zen Plaza, all of which had international brand name stores and prices that equal or exceed those in the US. That seemed pretty ridiculous but at least the air conditioning was free. While exiting one of the malls I picked up a copy of the International Herald Tribune so I could check out some news about the election and the rest of the world. The man who was walking around selling the newspapers was around 50 years old and he recognized me as a fellow “South Vietnamese”. He spoke English well and told me that he was born and raised here in “Saigon”. Although many people of his age were around during the American War it’s somewhat rare to chat with them (in English) since most of the folks you meet are much younger than I am.

Our lunch was at Centro, a great little Italian-style café next to the Caravelle Hotel, with Jesse a friend who has been living and working in HCMC for two years. The cappuccino was the best we’ve had in SE Asia so far and the crostini and pasta were light and excellent.

For dinner we met with Bryan and Quan from a hot startup company called Vinagame, based in HCMC. They introduced us to some great specialties from Hue at a fairly new restaurant called Sen Hue (Hue Lotus) on Nguyen Hue Street, near our hotel. The city was alive at night and adorned with festive lights for both the Christian New Year as well as Tet, the Vietnamese New Year coming up in a few weeks. We ended the evening atop sipping wine at the rooftop lounge of the Caravelle Hotel, overlooking the rooftops of the city.